The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments across the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
City Vineyards Around the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than ÂŁ7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a barrier on